Publications on fashion by Anneke Smelik 

(voor Nederlandse artikelen: scroll naar beneden)

New article: Adil Boughlala & Anneke Smelik, ‘Tracing the History of Digital Fashion‘, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. September 2024, open access.

 5 key articles on fashion:

1. ‘Polyester: a cultural history’. Fashion Practice. The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry 15 (2) 2023: 279-299.
2. ‘A Posthuman Turn in Fashion’. In V. Manlow, E. Paulicelli, E. Wissinger (eds), Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies. New York: Routledge, 2021: 57-64.
3. ‘Fractal Folds: The Posthuman Fashion of Iris van Herpen’. Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. Online December 2020. Print: 26 (1) 2022: 5-26 (translated in Spanish).
4. ‘New Materialism: A Theoretical Framework for Fashion in the Age of Technological Innovation’. International Journal of Fashion Studies 5 (1), 2018: 33-54.
5. ‘Gilles Deleuze: Bodies-without-Organs in the Folds of Fashion‘. In: Rocamora and Smelik (eds), Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, 2016: 163-185.

Publications: articles, chapters, books, lectures

• ‘A Dance of Materials: between the Organic and Inorganic in Iris van Herpen’s Fashion’, National Gallery of Victoria Art Journal, Australia, online: 11 december 2024.
• Review of exhibition ‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses’. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 15 (2) 2024: 245-249.
• ‘Introduction: Fashion, Beauty and Media’, with Susan Kaiser, Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 15 (2) 2024: 154-159.
• ‘Editorial foreword’ to the Special Issue on Transgender Embodiment’, with Susan Kaiser, Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 15 (1) 2024: 3-5.
• ‘Hanfu Catwalk Shows: a Performance of Chinese Femininities’, with Yan Jia, Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, online first, March 2024.
• I gave the keynote lecture Fashion Matters: Towards Mindful Fashion Studies at the Conference Fashion in 3D in Rimini (It) on 21 October, 2023. The lecture explored Buddhist mindfulness as a perspective for sustainable fashion.
• ‘Editorial foreword’ to the Special Issue on Arctic Fashion’, with Susan Kaiser, Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 14 (2) 2023: 137–139.
• Spanish translation of the article ‘Fractal Folds’: ‘Pliegues Fractales: El poshumanismo en los diseños de Iris van Herpen’. Transl. Monserrat Linares. In: Cuaderno 208, 2023: 77-96. The Center for Design and Communication Studies, Buenos Aires: University of Palermo.
• ‘Ambivalences, tensions and questions of im/materiality in fashion and beauty‘, with Susan Kaiser, Editorial introduction to Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 14 (1) 2023: 3-11.
• Anneke Smelik was co-convenor, with Alessandra Vaccari, of the International Conference Earth, Water, Air, and Fire: The Four Elements of Fashion, March 2023, organised by Università Iuav di Venezia.
• ‘Fashion Matters‘. A Lecture Series by Anneke Smelik on Sustainability, Posthumanism and New Materialism, report by Alessandra Vaccari, ZonaModa 12 (2) 2022: 83-85.
• ‘Encounters: Fashion and beauty, fashion and art, fashion and social justice’, with Susan Kaiser, Editorial introduction to Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 13 (2) 2022: 199-206.
• Review essay ‘The Material Culture of Textiles: Towards Sustainability’. In: MATTER: Journal of New Materialist Research 3 (2) 2022: 176-183.
• ‘Editorial foreword to the Special Issue on Curatorial Reflections’ (with Susan Kaiser), Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 13 (1) 2022: 3-5.
• ‘Crisscrossing through critical fashion studies: Inclusive and interdisciplinary intersections’, with Susan Kaiser. Editorial introduction to Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 12 (2)  2021: 155-161.
• ‘The Affect of Fashion: An Exploration of Affective Method’, with Maaike van Tienhoven. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 12 (2) 2021: 163-183.
• In French and English: “In conversation with Anneke Smelik about New Materialism”; “Le New Materialism et ses perspectives – Une discussion avec Anneke Smelik” Sartoria, Association de recherche en mode et histoire d’art, July 2021.
• ‘Letter from the editors for special issue on Fashion from Oceania’, with Nina Cole & Susan Kaiser. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 12 ( 1): 3-4.
• Blog ‘Zoom Fashion‘, Culture Weekly, February 2021.
• ‘Performing Fashion’, with Susan Kaiser: Editorial introduction to Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 11 (2) 2020: 117-128.
• ‘The Aesthetics and Politics of the Face Mask’, with Susan Kaiser. Intellect Newsletter, 7 Oct. 2020.
• ‘Materials and materialities: Viral and sheep-ish encounters with fashion’, with Susan Kaiser. Editorial introduction to Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty 11 (1) 2020: 9-19.
• Blog ‘Materialities: a virus and face masks’. Culture Weekly, June 2020.
• ‘Fashion Matters: the ‘Glocal’ Mix of Dutch Fashion’. In ZoneModa Journal 9 (2) 2019: 17-31.
• (in French) ‘Couture hi-tech: les créations post-humaines d’Iris van Herpen’, Publié par Noémie Balmat (ed.), Futur: Reliques Issue 1, Paris: Futur404, 2019: 244-251.
• ‘Wearable Technology, or: Science Fashion’. In: Rosi Braidotti and Maria Hlavajova (eds.), The Posthuman Glossary. London: Bloomsbury, 2018: 455-458.
• BOOK: Anneke Smelik (ed.), Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion, London: I.B. Tauris/Bloomsbury: 2017, 296 pp., illustrated with 140 photo’s.
• ‘Introduction: The Paradoxes of Dutch Fashion’. In: Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion, 2017: 1-26 (not digitally available).
• ‘Cybercouture: The Fashionable Technology of Pauline van Dongen, Iris Van Herpen and Bart Hess‘. In: Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion, 2017: 252-269.
• ‘Denim Goes Dutch: A Myth-in-the-Making’ (with Maaike Feitsma). In: Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion, 2017: 104-118 (not digitally available).
• ‘Vivid Colours: From the Local to the Global and Back Again: Oilily, Mac&Maggie and Cora Kemperman’ (with Daniëlle Bruggeman and Maaike Feitsma). In: Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion, 2017: 84-101 (not digitally available).
• ‘From Mac&Maggie to Cora Kemperman: Successful Co-Creation in Production and Consumption’ (with Anja Köppchen and Constantin Von Maltzahn). In: Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion, 2017: 158-175 (not digitally available).
• ‘Material Memory in Hussein Chalayan’s Techno-Fashion’ (with Lianne Toussaint). In: Munteán, Plate & Smelik (eds.), Materializing Memory in Art and Popular Culture. New York: Routledge, 2017: 89-105.
• Book review of Heike Jenss (ed.), Fashion Studies. Research Methods, Sites and Practices (2016). In Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 21 (5) 2017: 617-620.
• ‘From Hardware to ‘Softwear’: The Future Memories of Techno-Fashion’ (with Lianne Toussaint). In: Deborah Jaffé & Stephen Wilson (eds.), Memories of the Future. On Countervision. Bern: Peter Lang, 2017: 227-244 (not digitally available).
• Blog ‘Slow Fashion‘. Culture Weekly , March 2017.
• Book Review of Roman Meinhold, Fashion Myths. A Cultural Critique (2013). In Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture,  21 (1), January 2017: 103-106.
• ‘Solar Fashion. An Embodied Approach to Wearable Technology’, with Lianne Toussaint and Pauline van Dongen. International Journal of Fashion Studies. 3 (2) 2016: 287-303.
• BOOK: Agnès Rocamora and Anneke Smelik (eds), Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, London: I.B. Tauris/Bloomsbury, 2016, 316 pp. (translations in Mandarin, Japanese, Italian and Russian: see page on books).
• ‘Introduction to Thinking through Fashion’, with Agnès Rocamora. In: Rocamora and Smelik (eds), Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, 2016: 1-27.
• ‘Cool and Trendy: New Materialism’. Blog by Department of Cultural Studies, Culture Weekly, October 2016.
• ‘A Close Shave: The Taboo on Female Body Hair‘. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 6 (2) 2015: 233-251.
• ‘Jeans: from an American Icon to Dutch Denim’, with Maaike Feitsma. In: C. Decker & A. Böger (eds). Transnational Mediations. Negotiating Popular Culture between Europe and the United States. Heidelberg: Universitätsverlag Winter, 2015: 73-89.
• ‘Cybercouture: Transformations of Body and Identity‘. Paper in English based on lecture for The New Institute, Rotterdam, 2015.
• ‘Fashioning the Fold: Multiple Becomings‘. In: Rosi Braidotti & Rick Dolphijn (eds), This Deleuzian Century: Art, Activism, Society, Amsterdam: Rodopi, 2014: 35-49.
• ‘Cybercouture: Emotional Jeans or a Twittering Sweater‘. Blog for Culture Weekly, 2014.
• ‘Fashionable Technology‘. In: Mode@MOTI: Design for Debate. Breda: Museum of the Image, 2013: 54-61.
• ‘The Performance of Authenticity’. In: Address. Journal for Fashion Writing and Criticism, 1 (1) 2011: 76-82.
• ‘Skin-deep and hair-rising. The meaning of skin and hair colour’. In: Anne van der Zwaag & Jan Brand (eds), Colour in Time. Arnhem: Terra/Artez Press, 2011: 52-57.
• ‘Danger of Hair‘. In: Jan Brand & José Teunissen (eds), Fashion & Accessories. Arnhem: Terra/Artez Press, 2007: 172-177.
• ‘Fashion and Visual Culture‘. In: Jan Brand & José Teunissen (eds), The Power of Fashion. About Design and Meaning. Arnhem: Terra/ Artez Press, 2006: 152-171.

Publications in Dutch / Nederlandse artikelen en hoofdstukken van Anneke Smelik over mode

• ‘Een simpel wit T-shirt: het rijke veld van de mode’. Essay in De Groene Amsterdammer, nr 31, 3 augustus 2023: 42-45.
• ‘Van mondkapje tot duurzame mode. Naar een gezondere kledingindustrie met slow fashion’. In: Van den Brink, Hekster, van der Wilt, Gezonde samenleving. Wetenschappelijke perspectieven in tijden van crisis. Amsterdam: Prometheus, 2021: 91-106.
• ‘De laatste trends: modekritiek in Nederland‘ (met Rosanne de Goffau). In F. Meens (red.) Ten strijde tegen het verval. Cultuurkritiek in diachroon en internationaal perspectief​. Amsterdam University Press, 2021: 167-192.
• Mode en feminisme: van suffragette tot gender bender, Culture Weekly, oktober 2019 (helemaal naar beneden scrollen).
• Modekritiek in Nederland (met Rosanne de Goffau). In Boekman Extra. Online publicatie, april 2019.
• ‘Kleding: onderzoek naar de macht van mode’. Hoofdstuk en lespakket voor basisonderwijs. In S. Dekker, J. van Baren-Nawrocka, M. de Boer (red.), Wetenschappelijke doorbraken de klas in! Kleding, Magneten en Protest. Nijmegen: Wetenschapsknooppunt, 2019: 18-53.
• Genderbende: kleding en homoseksualiteit. In: Modemuze, 15 oktober 2018.
• Mode en duurzaamheid: een contradictio in terminis? In: Modemuze, 14 juli 2018.
• Science fashion: mode en technologie. In: Modemuze, 26 juni 2018.
• Wat trek ik vandaag aan? Over kleding, consumptie en identiteit. In: Modemuze, 15 juni 2018.
• Identiteit als dagelijkse verkleedpartij. Culture Weekly, Blog van Algemene Cultuurwetenschappen, RU, nov. 2017.
• Gevaarlijk haar. Menselijk haar in kunst en mode. In Jaarboek Studies in Textiel nr 5: HAAR! Hilversum: Verloren, 2017: 65-73.
• Cybercouture: Transformaties van lichaam en identiteit. Paper gebaseerd op lezing voor Het Nieuwe Instituut, Rotterdam, 2015.
• Cybercouture: Twitteren met je trui. Culture Weekly, 2015.
• Cybercouture: je mobieltje opladen met je jurk. In: Het beste idee van 2014. Uitgeverij De Wereld, 2014: 168-9.
• Monique van Heist weerstaat de verleiding van constante verandering In: VanHeistInHeerlen bij Glamcult. Independent Style Paper, jrg 10, 2013: 34-37.
• Hoofdstuk 7 Draagbare technologie: cybercouture en technomode, In: Anneke Smelik, Ik, cyborg. De mens-machine in populaire cultuur. Delft: Eburon, 2012: 127-155 .
• Fashion & Media. In: Premsela Seizoensbrochure, 2011: 16-17.
• Met huid en haar. De betekenis van huidskleur en haarkleur. In: Anne van der Zwaag en Jan Brand (red.), Kleur in beeld. Arnhem: Terra/Artez Press, 2011: 52-57.
• Het tijdperk van de gladjanus: het ideaal van het haarloze lichaam. In: Deus Ex Machina, 34 (nr. 133) 2010: 18-25.
• Het intermediale sprookje van de modeshow. In: Oosterling, Slager en van der Vall (red.), Intermediale Reflectie, Rotterdam: DAF-cahiers, 2007: 64-72.
• Het gevaar van haar In: Jan Brand en José Teunissen (red.), Mode & Accessoires. Arnhem: Terra/Artez Press, 2007: 172-177.
• Mode en media: van haute couture naar beeldcultuur. In: Jan Brand en José Teunissen (red.), De macht van mode. Over ontwerp en betekenis. Arnhem: Terra/Artez Press, 2006: 152-171.

Research programmes on fashion

Professor Smelik was project leader of three research programmes on fashion, all subsidised by NWO (the Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research):

I. Crafting Wearables was a research project on wearable technology, 2013-2018 (grant nr 314-99-113); together with ArtEZ Fashion Academy and Technical University Eindhoven, and private partners such as Philips and Textile Museum Tilburg. Read the interview in Fashion United Technologie als modevriend (in Dutch); or the short Summary or Samenvatting. In Dutch: Kort televisie interview met Anneke Smelik en Pauline van Dongen over wearable technology (NPO 2, De kennis van nu, 14 mei 2015, 16.05 uur, op ong. 17 min.).

The project resulted in two dissertations:

1. Pauline van Dongen defended her dissertation A Designer’s Material Aesthetics: Reflections on Fashion and Technology on October 4 2019, Technical University Eindhoven.
2. Lianne Toussaint defended her dissertation Wearing Technology: When Fashion and Technology Entwine on Thursday September 6, 2018, at the Radboud University Nijmegen. Read about Lianne Toussaint’s research in Dutch: Nemo Kennislink; this article, or this one in Intermediair, or this one on technofashion.

II. Another, shorter, research project was the KIEM project for innovation in the creative industries: Vlisco: Made in Holland, adorned in West-Africa (2015; grant nr 314-98-050). This research project on cultural hybridity was done by Daniëlle Bruggeman, who published the article ‘Vlisco: Made in Holland, adorned in West Africa, (re)appropriated as Dutch design’ in Fashion, Style & Popular Culture 4 (2): 197-214.

III. The large research project Dutch Fashion in a Globalised World focused on the cultural dynamics of Dutch fashion (2008-2014; grant nr 312-98-105). It was done together with ArtEZ Fashion Academy, University of Amsterdam, Saxion University Enschede, and several private partners. Read this interview in Radboud Magazine (2014) and an interview in ELLE (2013). See earlier interviews in the Dutch press: NWO on ‘impact’ (valorisatie); NWO Experiment NL and Fashion United. Here is a short summary of the project in Dutch/English. The research programme resulted in the book Delft Blue to Denim Blue (see on page ‘books’) and in four dissertations, which can be fully downloaded:

1. Daniëlle Bruggeman, More Than Meets the Eye: Dutch Fashion, Identity and New Materialism, Radboud University Nijmegen, 2014; article on website RUN; and article in Fashion United on Daniëlle’s research.
2. Anja Köppchen, Mind the Gap: Balancing Design and Global Manufacturing in Dutch Fashion, Radboud University Nijmegen, 2014; article by NWO on Anja’s research.
3. Maaike Feitsma, Nederlandse Mode? Een Verkenning van Mythevorming en Betekenissen (allow time for downloading); Radboud University Nijmegen, 2014; interview with Maaike. In January 2015 she won the Hermesdorf price of the Radboud University for the publicity she received for her dissertation.
4. Constantin-Felix Von Maltzahn, The Construction of Brand Identities by Designers and Consumers, University of Amsterdam, 2013; interview with Constantin.